Going Solo in Japan: 2 Weeks of Temples, Mountains and Self-Discovery
In May 2019, I did something brave. I left my three kids, husband and the chaos of everyday life behind and flew to Japan—for two whole weeks—by myself.
It wasn’t a decision made lightly, but something inside me craved stillness, confidence, and a reminder of who I was outside of being Mum. Japan, with its mix of serenity, structure and beauty, gave me exactly what I didn’t know I needed.
Here’s how my solo trip unfolded, as well as some lessons and experiences I’ll never forget.
My 13-Night Japan Itinerary
Days 1–3: Tokyo (Harajuku, Shibuya, Shinjuku) – Finding My Feet
I landed in Tokyo and based myself in Shinjuku. The first few days were about re-orienting; to a new and unfamiliar city, to the silence of my own company, to walking without a plan and eating alone without apology. It was also all about learning the basics—how to buy a train ticket, order food, and avoid getting hopelessly lost.
Highlights:
- Harajuku: A feast for the eyes. I wandered down Takeshita Street, ducking into colourful shops, people-watching and soaking up the creative energy. It was bold, crazy, and completely captivating.
- Senso-ji Temple, Asakusa: This was my first real moment of stillness in Tokyo. I lit incense, stood quietly among locals, and felt something shift. Even in the busiest city, there’s space to breathe.
- A Maid Café: One of the weirdest and most hilarious experiences of the trip. Completely outside my comfort zone—and that was the point. I leaned in and laughed my way through it. (Tip: Just go with it. The kitsch is part of the charm.)
- Shibuya Crossing: Controlled chaos at its best. I stood at the edge of the scramble, waited for the lights, and joined the flood of people from every direction. I then grabbed a seat by the window in Starbucks for the best view of the crossing from above.
Tip: Use your first few days in Tokyo to get comfortable being slightly lost. The train system can be tricky at first, but the people are kind, and there’s something fun about not always knowing what’s around the corner.
Personal note: I’d expected Tokyo to feel overwhelming, but it surprised me. Yes, it’s loud and huge—but there’s a rhythm to it. I started to walk a little slower, to look up more, and to let the unexpected lead the way.
Days 4–6: Nikko & Hakone – Temples, Nature, and Onsens
I joined a small group tour run by Intrepid Travel, and travelled to Nikko—a mountainous town northeast of Tokyo. It was green, peaceful, and full of shrines nestled in towering cedar forests. Then came Hakone, famous for hot springs and views of Mt Fuji.
Must-dos:
- Toshogu Shrine (Nikko): Ornate, spiritual and surrounded by nature.
- Private Onsen in Hakone: One of the most quietly powerful moments of the trip. I soaked in the steam and exhaled three years of stress.
Days 7–9: Takayama – A Step Back in Time
Takayama felt like old Japan. Wooden houses, morning markets, and a slower rhythm. I stayed in a traditional ryokan with futons on the tatami floor. A beautiful place to wander aimlessly.
Favourites:
- Miyagawa Morning Market: Look out for the handmade crafts and textiles
- Hida beef skewer: Expensive but incredible. When wagyu beef is served as street food, you know you’re somewhere special.
Days 10–11: Hiroshima – Peace and Power
Hiroshima broke my heart and rebuilt it. Visiting the Peace Memorial Park and Museum was confronting but essential. The city is vibrant, resilient and surprisingly full of hope.
Unmissable:
- A-Bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Museum: Prepare to feel everything.
- Miyajima Island: The floating Torii gate, tame deer, and the stunning Mt Misen hike were a highlight.
Reflection: Hiroshima taught me that we can carry grief and still choose kindness. It was impossible not to be moved.
Days 12–13: Kyoto – Magic in the Details
I parted ways with the Intrepid group by the time we arrived in Kyoto. It was time to be travelling solo again, and falling in love with this beautiful place; temples, geishas, bamboo forests, and hidden alleyways. It felt ancient and alive.
Top spots:
- Fushimi Inari Shrine: Get there early to beat the crowds and walk further than most for peace and quiet.
- Gion District: Wander at dusk and you might glimpse a geisha.
- Arashiyama Bamboo Grove: Touristy, but surreal in the early morning mist.
What I Learnt on my Land of the Rising Sun Tour
- I’m more capable than I think. Navigating public transport, foreign menus, and cultural etiquette alone gave me a confidence boost I didn’t expect.
- Silence is sacred. Japan reminded me that not every moment needs to be filled. Stillness has power.
- Following your instincts isn’t selfish. I left the group tour early and spent my time in Kyoto solo, for a bit of much needed quiet reflection before flying home. It was the best decision I made.
Favourite Small Moments
- Ordering ramen via a vending machine and getting exactly what I didn’t know I wanted.
- Drawing an omikuji at Senso-Ji Temple in Tokyo. Very profound.
- Getting lost. And realising that I could always, always find my way.
Would I Recommend Solo Travel to Japan?
Without hesitation. It’s safe, stunning, efficient, and filled with quiet surprises. Japan gently challenges you, but also holds you—like it knows you’ve come to find something. And you will.
