Granada in Summer: Hidden Gems & the Alhambra Experience
Granada is a city that practically shimmers with history. Nestled at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, it’s home to one of Spain’s most iconic landmarks, The Alhambra. But there’s so much more to it. It’s a city of contrasts: old and new, elegance and edge, heat and… more heat. We spent two days exploring Granada with our three kids, and it turned out to be one of the most visually striking stops on our Spanish roadtrip.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the NH Collection Granada Victoria Hotel, in two spacious rooms with views looking out over the Iglesia de San Antón. The location was spot-on: central enough to walk everywhere, but also not overrun with tourists. Our room had a small Juliette balcony that was perfect for people-watching, which we did with delight.
Exploring Granada with Kids? This Tourist Train Is a Lifesaver
Visting the Alhambra was top of our list of things to do in Granada, however, as you’d probably expect, it sits high up on the Sabika Hill, so we needed to concoct a plan on how to get there with everyone (and our nerves intact). That’s where the Granada Tourist Train came in, which we stumbled across in Plaza Nueva. It’s not always the kind of thing we would do, but in the relentless June heat, it was a lifesaver. Open-sided and breezy, it wound us gently up the (surprisingly steep) hill, past all the main city sights, in time for our tour of the Alhambra; sparing us the uphill battle with three kids in tow. This is the only tourist train you will ever happily find me on!
Alhambra Tour Tips: What to Expect from Granada’s Most Iconic Landmark
We booked skip-the-line tickets with a guided tour of the Alhambra and Generalife… but it didn’t go quite to plan!
We actually missed the start of our guided tour, as Chris had to make a last-minute scramble back to our hotel to retrieve our forgotten photo ID.
WARNING: You need to show valid photo ID to get into the Alhambra and it must be your original ID, not a copy or photo. Even our digital driver’s licences were unacceptable.
Not the ideal start to our walk in the past, but we eventually made it through the security checks and managed to catch up with our tour guide.
Highlights from our tour included:
- The Alcazaba: the original fortress is the oldest part of the Alhambra complex, with epic panoramic views from the Watchtower.
- Court of the Water Channel: the heart of the Generalife gardens, showcasing the harmony of Islamic garden design through elaborate water features and lush greenery, bordered by ornate Moorish archways and covered walkways.
- The Generalife Gardens: there was something so heady about walking through what was once a retreat reserved only for Muslim royalty. Even surrounded by the summer crowds you couldn’t help but be entranced by the Oleander Walkway that led the way back out of the gardens, then downhill exiting through the Gate of the Pomegranates on the way to lunch.
The guidebook suggests spending a minimum of three hours at the Alhambra, and there is certainly enough to see and do in that time. For us though, it was more a whistlestop tour, based on what kept the boys interest the longest; usually running races through the maze of cypress trees, or cooling off in the nearest water fountain.
An Oasis in the City: Hammam Al Ándalus
After battling the crowds through the Alhambra, Chris and I booked an afternoon session at Hammam Al Ándalus while the kids chilled back at the hotel. The bathhouse, designed in traditional Arabian style, offered candlelit pools of varying temperatures, mint tea, and a 30-minute massage that should be prescribed as a remedy for heatstroke and parenting fatigue.
It was quiet, calming, and a very welcome break. Honestly, it felt like stepping into another century in another world. Highly recommend for any parents who need a reset.
Where We Ate
This wasn’t our most food-forward stop, but we had some solid meals. Breakfast at the hotel kept everyone fuelled, and lunch spots were mostly chosen based on proximity to shade and cold drinks. Granada’s famed free tapas with drinks is a bonus, though; order a cerveza, and something salty and delicious will appear like magic.
Final Impressions
Granada felt like stepping into a history book. Dramatic hills, Moorish palaces, flowering courtyards, and distant mountains. It was boiling hot and at times, exhausting, but the city’s beauty is undeniable.
It’s not the easiest place to navigate with kids in the heat, but it’s definitely worth the effort.
